Your issue is the distance from the router to the wireless PC combined with the walls, furniture and whatever else might be diffusing the signal. Plus, the wireless receiver antenna in your wireless PCs can affect performance. That is why your speed tests show such a great discrepancy compared to wired.
Have you measured how much cable you will need? Get enough and add at least fifteen feet to that figure. One continuous length is best...a custom cut at Lowe's, etc., should do it.
Here at my small condo, I only need wired for firmware updates from a PC to the router. Otherwise, the one wall between my PC work and the router cause no perceptible slowdown for me.
Have you measured how much cable you will need? Get enough and add at least fifteen feet to that figure. One continuous length is best...a custom cut at Lowe's, etc., should do it.
More than a year ago I bought 100 feet of cable. I was just too lazy to install it. All I need to buy now are two jacks.
Yeah that's what I did (wired everything in the house that is). I was able to get a couple 100' cables for less than $20 apiece. I just prefer the reliability of a wired connection. Not to mention that there's no configuration to deal with. I do have wireless capability too. But I only use that for things like my kids and my iPod Touch, or when my daughter or I take our laptops outside.
I have a combo set up. I have a Cable Modem to a linksyswired router one link is to a netgear wireless router. All the desktops are wired, all the laptops are wireless. Speed is relative. Depends on what you are doing. My son ran the cables into the walls down from the attic so the only place I havelong cables showing is in my radio room and at the modem/router connections
ed
OS - Windows XP Personal PS3 DELL DIM 4500 - Intel P4 2.25 GHZ Memory - 2X512 PC 3200 133-200Mhz Graphics G
I just wired one Jack and screwed it into the wall. That is enough for today. This is my question. How can I do a continuity test once I complete the work?
If you don't want to go through all the work of wiring the house you could try what I used in our new home. The house is on a concrete slab so there's no basement to run wires and it has cathedral ceilings so there's no attic space either to run cables. Our home theater is on a wall in the center of the home with no way to run cables to it so I bought this: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16833122329&Tpk=netgear%20xav101 and hooked it to my Blue Ray player to get things like netflix, YouTube, etc. Works like a charm.
QUOTE: If you don't want to go through all the work of wiring the house you could try what I used in our new home. The house is on a concrete slab so there's no basement to run wires and it has cathedral ceilings so there's no attic space either to run cables. Our home theater is on a wall in the center of the home with no way to run cables to it so I bought this: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16833122329&Tpk=netgear%20xav101 and hooked it to my Blue Ray player to get things like netflix, YouTube, etc. Works like a charm.
#11. "RE: Continuity Testing" In response to mowerman90 (Reply # 9) Sun Jul-29-12 11:40 PM by MSU
I'd forgotten about those things! I don't hear much about them anymore. I like the idea those for area's that are difficult to run an Ethernet cable. It can get a bit expensive if you have a bunch of devices in different rooms though.
I've been debating on moving my whole entertainment setup (TV, WD TV Live, DVR, XBox) from my family room to my living room. It's currently hard wired in the family room. But I have nothing going to the living room. I think I may have to change my plan and go with that setup for it. I have Ethernet running from my home office to the family room and each bedroom. But dang that would be much more convenient for the living room. Although a bit more expensive.
QUOTE: I'd forgotten about those things! I don't hear much about them anymore. I like the idea those for area's that are difficult to run an Ethernet cable. It can get a bit expensive if you have a bunch of devices in different rooms though.
I've been debating on moving my whole entertainment setup (TV, WD TV Live, DVR, XBox) from my family room to my living room. It's currently hard wired in the family room. But I have nothing going to the living room. I think I may have to change my plan and go with that setup for it. I have Ethernet running from my home office to the family room and each bedroom. But dang that would be much more convenient for the living room. Although a bit more expensive.
Will it work if the devices are on different circuits?
You know I'm not 100% sure but I think it does as long as the circuits are on the same main coming into the house. I'm sure Ed (mowerman90) can tell us.
I am thinking of buying a continuity tester. One thing that I don't understand however. Both ends of the cable will be quite a distance away from each other. How is it possible to plug both ends into the tester?
QUOTE: y0u either have to test brfore the cable is installed, or run very fast.
Actually, one part of the tester sends a signal through the cable to be read by the other unit at the diatant end.
I can no longer run very fast.
In my case when the job is completed, I will have a jack on each end of the cable. Will this tester tell me which jack is not wired correctly? Would I be better off just plugging it into the computer, and see whether it works?
QUOTE: y0u either have to test brfore the cable is installed, or run very fast.
Actually, one part of the tester sends a signal through the cable to be read by the other unit at the diatant end.
I can no longer run very fast.
In my case when the job is completed, I will have a jack on each end of the cable. Will this tester tell me which jack is not wired correctly? Would I be better off just plugging it into the computer, and see whether it works?
here is the color code diagram. I believe in the U.S most applications use the B wiring order. You will need a crimper to do this. It's easy then, anyone can do it. just make sure you use the same wiring order on both ends.
they all come with the remote (second part) so you just plug one end onto the main unit, set the unit for the remote procedure, and take the second part to the other end and plug it in to test. Yes, pretty well all of them will tell you which (if any)wires are out of order.
QUOTE: y0u either have to test brfore the cable is installed, or run very fast.
Actually, one part of the tester sends a signal through the cable to be read by the other unit at the diatant end.
I can no longer run very fast.
In my case when the job is completed, I will have a jack on each end of the cable. Will this tester tell me which jack is not wired correctly? Would I be better off just plugging it into the computer, and see whether it works?
here is the color code diagram. I believe in the U.S most applications use the B wiring order. You will need a crimper to do this. It's easy then, anyone can do it. just make sure you use the same wiring order on both ends.
they all come with the remote (second part) so you just plug one end onto the main unit, set the unit for the remote procedure, and take the second part to the other end and plug it in to test. Yes, pretty well all of them will tell you which (if any)wires are out of order.
Thanks, I already wired one one Jack with as a B standard. No crimper was needed. I used a punch down tool.
He terminated the cable with jacks, not plugs. The jacks go into wallplates for a finished look. Then he can plug a patch cable between the wall jack and the computer or router.
Behind every good computer... is a jumble of wires 'n stuff.
QUOTE: He terminated the cable with jacks, not plugs. The jacks go into wallplates for a finished look. Then he can plug a patch cable between the wall jack and the computer or router.
I use my power lines for X10 signals for home automation. ...elementary and decades old technology that sometimes has problems with electrical "noise" interferring with the signals -even with high end (Leviton) receivers.
I can't imagine trying to effectively run my PC network that way.
I have a phase coupler in my electric panel so that the X10 signals can pass from one phase to another (and amplifies the signal) - generally needed if your square footage gets close to 3,000 or larger. I have noise filters on my "signal suckers" - Plasma TV, UPSs.
The cost of devices to keep the signals clean and amplified thoroughout the house might not be cost effective if you don't already have a need for those kinds of things.
Hmm, even though both technologies operate via the interior electrical wiring, I don't think they are quite the same technology. I think they operate at different frequencies too, which would make a difference.
I don't know anything about network over power, but I would think that it would still need to cross phases if the sender is on one phase and the receiver on another. ...and that is one of the more expensive accessories.
Yeah, I know very little about it other than what I've read at certain hardware manufacturers sites. None of them seem to even mention what you're referring to. I don't now...plain old ethernet is sounding better again
Maybe the potential issues you bring up are why it's not really caught on...
I can see it with limited use (printer), but not for any PC that I would depend upon. But then, I really don't know how reliable network-over-power is. I don't have any problems with my X10 (not since all of my receivers are Leviton), but brown outs and surges can really mess up hardware. I did have a surge (or brown out, I don't know which) from lightening striking a transformer once that turned every light in the house on (around 3am). A couple of my (relatively) less expensive switches were ruined - I couldn't turn them off.
Since every room in my house is wired, that's the way I go. My router is also wireless, but I only turn it on when the kids visit (paranoid much?).
I have two wired-and-wireless printers that I will switch to wireless when I get my "work" room finished - to keep it from looking like a "work" room. The PCs will still be wired.
#32. "RE: Continuity Testing" In response to Priscilla (Reply # 31) Fri Aug-03-12 06:58 PM by Sid
Priscilla,
I haven't read your thread, so, may be repeating someone else. If you haven't bought your cabling, give cablewholesale.com a gander for incredible pricing and, in my experience, equally incredible service and support. Great bunch...just like here!
I just received some Cat5e jacks/mounts. I have a concern. I looked at the numbers on the jack. The numbers on the jack are in a different location than the numbers in the already installed jack. I assume that putting the correct color into the correct number will make the proper connections. I thought that they would be standard.
Different manufacturers will have different designs for the jacks. Even different models from the same manufacturer could have a different order for the connections. What matters is that the correct color wire ends up on the correct pin in the jack. That's what the label is there for. Just follow the label on each jack and it will be fine.
Behind every good computer... is a jumble of wires 'n stuff.
QUOTE: Different manufacturers will have different designs for the jacks. Even different models from the same manufacturer could have a different order for the connections. What matters is that the correct color wire ends up on the correct pin in the jack. That's what the label is there for. Just follow the label on each jack and it will be fine.
I am now in the kitchen. I am having trouble drilling a hole to allow me to push the wire through into the living where the router is located. I have tried using what I think is a masonry bit. I only have a rotary drill. Will this job require a hammer drill? I don't want to invest in one for drill one hole.
QUOTE:I have tried using what I think is a masonry bit.
Are you indeed drilling through masonry? Are you drilling through block, brick, mortar, concrete, etc? What type of masonry? You'll have a heck of a time drilling through anything but masonry with such a bit. If it's an old bit you may have trouble even drilling through masonry. You shouldn't need a hammer-drill though.
QUOTE:I have tried using what I think is a masonry bit.
Are you indeed drilling through masonry? Are you drilling through block, brick, mortar, concrete, etc? What type of masonry? You'll have a heck of a time drilling through anything but masonry with such a bit. If it's an old bit you may have trouble even drilling through masonry. You shouldn't need a hammer-drill though. \
Concrete.
There is a hole next to where I am trying to drill. That is where the cable for the TV goes. I remember drilling holes with this bit before and not having a problem. could a masonry bit get dull after drilling 3 holes?
QUOTE:Could a masonry bit get dull after drilling 3 holes?
Yep, depending on the quality of the bit and what was drilled through. If you have a bench grinder you can easily resharpen it. Just sharpen the angled flutes at the tip.
QUOTE: Hammer drill will make it go easy/faster. Can you borrow or rent one? If the concrete has large aggregate then you might be into a piece of that.
I appreciate what you are saying, but for one hole I don't need it to be fast.
I I picked up the drill today and noticed that I had it set for reverse. I changed it to forward, and with some effort, it went through. All that remains is for me to wire up the keystone jack and hope for the best. I was almost too ashamed to mention it.
Re-check the wiring against the labels on the jacks, check multiple times. Make sure you use the same wiring scheme, 568A or 568B on both ends. Make sure that the patch cables on both ends are good.
If it still doesn't work, you need a cable tester, or a long patch cable to bring the connections back to the source so you can use a more conventional continuity tester such as an ohmmeter.
Behind every good computer... is a jumble of wires 'n stuff.
Sid
In any case, looks like you'll find out soon if you were successful in your wiring effort.
